What is Siberian Rye Cookies
Siberian Rye Cookies, also called kozuli, are a traditional Christmas treat best known in the north of Russia. They have a history of at least a thousand years that we can find written references to. My guess is that they are quite a bit older than that. Made with whole ground rye flour and very basic ingredients, two varieties of kozuli existed.
Varieties of Siberian Rye Cookies
One is Sculpted Cookie (lepnoi pryanik), which originated in the pagan Russia. It took shapes of the ancient mythological animals – deer, cow, goat, horse, duck, wild hen with chicks; seal by the north sea.
Russian pagan faith drew inspiration from the power of nature. That’s why each animal depicted a set of beliefs. For example, deer represented the Sun, the ultimate power of all things. The Sun gives life to earth, that’s why a deer was always shown standing on patch of ground.
As another example, cookies in a shape of deer with a triple braid were customary to make for young girls. The braid symbolized ‘Faith, Hope and Love‘, good fortune to find a husband. The ingredients were quite ascetic – rough ground rye flour, salt and water, along with some nordic plants and roots serving as spices.
Folks shaped very stiff dough into three-dimensional figurines. Alternatively, they made tiny dough ropes and twisted them into very elaborate tiny ‘sculptures’. After dipping the dough figures in boiling water, they were then baked in traditional clay ovens until hard and crispy. Very few, even in the north, use this technique any more.
The other variety is basically glazed cutout cookies (vireznoi pryanik). It’s the recipe that I’m posting here. It became popular a lot later in Russian history, around 18th century. That’s the time when sugar and exotic spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, etc) became a commodity rather than luxury. It is also the variety that passed the test of time, and it is still going strong in the north of Russia.
Arkhangelsk region, which I happen to be a native of, is a place of kozuli’s origins. As you would imagine, I ate my generous share of these treats as a kid, and have very fond memories of them around winter holidays.
Origins of the word ‘Kozuli’
At the sound of the word kozuli, the first thing that comes to mind is goat (koza). It also goes in line with the images of the deer, cow, goat. But some researches suggest that the name might come from the word hazulya, which means a small snake (uzh). The snake reference comes from the rope-like dough and twisty designs.
There is a theory that baking kozuli is deeply ritualistic. It’s a practice that replaced animal sacrifice in the pagan Russia. Making beautiful and elaborate kozuli in large quantities and on very special occasions represented desire for bounty of domestic cattle and wild game in the upcoming year. Some kozuli remained uneaten, displayed in the best place of a house (often next to religious icons) until the following Christmas. They served as protection from the evil.
Some notes
- Arkhangels kozuli are a part of the national art heritage. Their designs get very intricate and elaborate. For the nordic craftsmen, it is yet another medium for creativity, even though an edible one.
- My recipe is a very traditional version, without any of my personal twist. I’m still wondering about the reason behind adding boiling water to burnt sugar at the risk of burning my hand from the steam reaction, but since not a single recipe out there disputes it – I’m too afraid to mess with perfection. So I just roll with it.
- Siberian Rye Cookies are reminiscent of American ginger bread cookies in flavor.
- If you have kids, you will learn that apparently some shapes taste better than others.
HOW TO MAKE SIBERIAN RYE COOKIES
Ingredients
Rye Cookies
1 cup (200g) sugar
1/3 cup (100mL) boiling water
8 tablespoons (110g) butter
3 egg yolks
3.5 cups (about 440g) whole ground rye flour + 1/4 cup extra, if needed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
A pinch of cloves and cardamom (optional)
Glaze
1 egg white
1 cup (200g) powdered sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
In a small thick bottomed saucepan on low heat, melt 1/2 cup sugar stirring often until dark brown (I leave it untouched at first, until the sugar starts to melt around the edges, after that I keep a close eye on it).
Very slowly, taking care to stand back, pour 1/3 cup boiling water, whisking constantly into the melted sugar (the mixture will bubble and steam quite a bit).
Once combined, the mixture will turn very dark brown.
Add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and simmer until completely melted.
Remove from heat; add 8 tablespoons butter (it will melt very slowly). The color will lighten. Leave for a few minutes.
Whisk 3 egg yolks. While whisking constantly, very slowly add the caramel mixture to egg yolks.
Add the rest of the ingredients. Knead, at first with a spoon, then your hand, until the dough resembles play dough, which is just slightly sticky. If the dough is very sticky, add the extra 1/4 cup rye flour.
Cover or wrap, and leave in refrigerator for at least 20 minutes, and up to 24 hours.
When ready to bake, allow the dough to warm up. It will be beautifully pliable, without any hint of stickiness.
Preheat oven to 350ºF and prepare two cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.
Roll the dough out to about 1/8 of an inch, very thin (no need to use extra flour). Cut out your favorite cookie shapes.
Bake for 8-10 minutes, until the edges start browning just a little. Cool on wire rack before glazing.
Notes
In the olden days, the cooked rye cookies were dipped into boiling water 3-4 times, supposedly it makes them more smooth, firm and long lasting.
RUSSIAN RYE COOKIES {KOZULI]
Ingredients
COOKIES
- 1 cup 200g sugar
- 1/3 cup 100mL boiling water
- 8 tablespoons (110g) butter
- 3 egg yolks
- 3.5 cups (about 440g) whole ground rye flour + 1/4 cup extra, if needed
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- A pinch of cloves and cardamom optional
GLAZE
- 1 egg white
- 1 cup (200g) powdered sugar
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
TO MAKE COOKIES
- In a small thick bottomed saucepan on low heat, melt 1/2 cup sugar stirring often until dark brown (I leave it untouched at first, until the sugar starts to melt around the edges, after that I keep a close eye on it).
- Very slowly, taking care to stand back, pour 1/3 cup boiling water, whisking constantly into the melted sugar (the mixture will bubble and steam quite a bit).
- Once combined, the mixture will turn very dark brown.
- Add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and simmer until completely melted.
- Remove from heat; add 8 tablespoons butter (it will melt very slowly). The color will lighten. Leave for a few minutes.
- Whisk 3 egg yolks. While whisking constantly, very slowly add the caramel mixture to egg yolks.
- Add the rest of the ingredients. Knead, at first with a spoon, then your hand, until the dough resembles play dough, which is just slightly sticky. If the dough is very sticky, add the extra 1/4 cup rye flour.
- Cover or wrap, and leave in refrigerator for at least 20 minutes, and up to 24 hours.
- When ready to bake, allow the dough to warm up. It will be beautifully pliable, without any hint of stickiness.
- Preheat oven to 350ºF and prepare two cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.
- Roll the dough out to about 1/8 of an inch, very thin (no need to use extra flour). Cut out your favorite cookie shapes.Bake for 8-10 minutes, until the edges start browning just a little. Cool on wire rack before glazing.
TO MAKE GLAZE
- Combine all ingredients in a stand up mixer and whip with a whisk attachment on medium speed until fluffy and light, about 10 minutes.
- Pipe onto the cookies using a piping tip No. 2 or 3.
- Allow to dry for an hour or until completely dry to touch.
Notes
- In the olden days, the cooked cookies were dipped into boiling water 3-4 times, supposedly it makes them more smooth, firm and long lasting.
1 comment
How many cookies does this make?